Look at a map of Norway, and you’ll quickly realise that driving the coastline in a few weeks is not possible. There are unavoidable shortcuts, even on the #OlympusBackRoads project. Most of them involve ferries. Some are huge, and take you to and from populated areas, others only hold a few vehicles, and go to places I had never heard of. There’s always coffee and slightly strange local food such as the “svele”. And there’s always space for a motorcycle.
Of course I haven’t done 57,600 ferry crossings. But in the cafeteria on the M/F Bergensfjord I met and photographed the cheerful Vibekke Rabben, who has worked on ferries for so long I had to use a calculator to do the math: 180 working days for 40 years, 8 crossings every day. I was so impressed that Svele and coffee seemed the only appropriate meat. I forgot to ask how many times Vibekke has served that somewhat dubious delicacy.